The books / Mead Making / chapter 18 of 21

Varietal meads

All chapters
  1. Honey, water and yeast
  2. Why mead goes wrong
  3. Never boil the must
  4. Honey and gravity
  5. The alcohol is the gravity you lost
  6. Choosing a yeast
  7. Feed it in thirds
  8. Sanitise everything it touches
  9. The cellar through the year
  10. Three steady readings
  11. Racking off the lees
  12. Faults and what caused them
  13. A stuck ferment and the restart
  14. Clearing, fining and the second racking
  15. Stabilise before you sweeten
  16. Dry, semi-sweet and sweet
  17. Bottling
  18. Varietal meads
  19. Patience is a technique
  20. Selling mead, and the licence
  21. What the cellar leaves out

A mead made from one honey tastes of that honey, which is the whole point of a varietal. As a rule the light honeys are mild and the dark ones strong. Light, delicate honeys such as basswood, the American linden, make fine meads that let the flower show.

Dark, earthy honeys are harder. One meadmaker describes fermented buckwheat as pungent and heather as extremely earthy, and prefers them blended with a lighter honey. The same maker avoids champagne yeast in varietal meads because it dries them out too much; EC-1118 is that kind of yeast, neutral and very dry.

In this game a bottle is named for its honey and carries that honey's premium when D47, 71B or K1V made it, half of it with EC-1118.